When pups first go home, they may not eat very well due to all the excitement. Your pup should eat SOMETHING though, even if its a few bites. If he does not eat at all on the second day, contact me or your vet for advice. Do not change his diet, do not try to hand feed, do not think he doesnt like his food prepared as instructed. It is all he knows about food, and its how hes been fed since he was old enough to eat. When a pup is not eating, or has the runs, the first thing some vets do is change their diet, or tell you to switch to a bland diet. I think all this does is create a finicky eater. If a bland diet is recommended for a few days, please at least add a ½ ration of kibble to it. CALL me if you have problems, its what I'm here for!!!

A Word On Bones And Treats You may feed your dog raw meaty bones to chew on. NEVER feed your dog cooked bones of any kind. The cooked bones will splinter and could kill your dog. If you are cooking steak and would like to give your dog a bone from it, cut it out before cooking. You may also give your dog pressed Rawhide to chew on. Pressed rawhide lasts longer, and is safer than traditional white rawhide. I do not recommend pig ears, hooves, or any other of this type of treat. They cause diarrhea and worse, death from splinters.

The little bags of dog treats sold in grocery stores generally contain no meat product, or very little. They arent near as good as a small piece of cheese, or hotdog when it comes to training. Milk bones and such are very grainy and should be fed sparingly. There is alot of research being done about the connection of too much grains and allergies in dogs. Premium brand treats from your pet store will be a better choice than the cheaper ones in the grocery store.

Supplements There are many suplements on the market for dogs. If you feel you must add them to your dogs diet, use a Pet Tab Plus, or another daily type vitamin. There is a lot of studies being done about the connection of Vitamin C, and Glucosamine. I think they do not hurt!! It is felt that Vitamin C, especially Ester C, helps with joint development. Supliments are also available in powder form, which will make feeding them to your dog easier than crushing pills. See the link to Peak products on my links page for information on complete, superior powder mix supliments.

Be an educated shopper with any of these products. Fish oil and Kelp are two very valuable additives in a dogs diet if your kibble doesn't contain them. Be careful of kibble that is primarily fish, dogs aren't meant to eat large quantities of this daily. Buying suppliments in a powder form will make giving them to your dog easier than crushing or grinding pills. There are many types of pills and powders on the market for dogs. Human grade vitamins are cheaper than the dog brands, and work just as well. If you shop for dog suppliments, find out if the same product doses and combinations can be purchased in human form. If in doubt about what to give, stick with the Pet Tab Plus, or Peak products.

Balls And Toys Be sure that whatever toy you give your dog will not have parts that the dog can chew off. Bells and squeakers are death traps for pups. If you play with your dog using a squeaky toy, be sure it is for interactive play only as the pup will eventually rip the toy up and could swallow the squeak. If you buy a ball with a bell in it, use a needle nose pliers to remove it as the dog can choke on it. New research shows that the glue used in tennis balls causes damage to the enamel in a dogs teeth when it interacts with the saliva of the dogs mouth.

A pup can play with a tennis ball as he will loose these teeth, but when his new teeth come in, the balls should be thrown out. Never leave a dog or a puppy to play with a tennis ball alone, as they are easily torn up and present a choking hazard. Kong toys come in all shapes and sizes, and are great play toys for pups and dogs. They come in a floating variety for water play as well. Kong balls are hollow and you can fill it with cream cheese, or peanut butter and give it to your dog in his crate for hours of play. Tugs and ropes are favorites of my dogs. Tug of War has long since been labeled as Taboo for our pets. I happen to think that dogs love to play it, and it is a great stress reliever.

Pups can be taught to properly play this game by learning to bite only the toy. When the pup accidentally bits your hand, scream, "OUCH", to the pup, and when he stops, resume play. When pups play with each other, they scream and howl when another pup is getting to rough. Essentially saying your hurting me! Stop it! We communicate this the same way to the pup. If the pup wont take the hint, put him in his crate, calling it game over if you can't play nice, and ignore him. Try again later until he gets the hint.

House Training Establish a word or words for your puppy that means going to the bathroom, such as go potty or good outside . Every time your dog eliminates outside, tell it good potty or good outside. Do this for your dogs whole life, it will reinforce what it is that you want to do. Once your pup makes a connection between your chosen word and his elimination, he will learn to potty on command. Very useful for when you go traveling with your dog! Tell your pup, go potty, and when he goes, tell him good potty . When your pup goes in an inappropriate place, startle your pup into stopping the process with a no!!! outside!!. You don't have to shout, just make your tone unpleasant. When you scoop your pup out, and put him outside and he finishes there, tell him good potty in a very pleasant voice. Take your pup to the same place each time to help him predict what it is hes supposed to be doing! If you don't catch your pup in a second or two, ignore the mistake, and clean it up and try again next time. Clean it up with a pet odor remover cleaner. Once your pup has the idea that outside is where you praise him for going, he will be well on his way to being trained, but be sure you are always watching your pup to be aware of his signals that he has to go.

Pups will have to go frequently, after naps, play, eating and drinking. They will have to go in the middle of the night for the first few weeks until he is 12-16 weeks old. After he goes, put the pup right back in the crate so he doesn't learn that nighttime potty is also playtime. Flexi leashes are great for potty training pups as they allow you to stand still while your pup searches for a place to go. If you walk along with your pup, you may distract him from the task at hand, and he'll try to play with your legs. Try to stand still while he sniff, telling him, "Go Potty" and be ready to praise when he does. Teach your pup to go potty while on a leash, so when you travel, or board your dog, he will feel comfortable doing so. If you take your dog training, when you get him out of the car, take him to a potty area, and give him the chance to go. This will teach him to take care of his needs before he goes to work or play!

Pups shouldn't have the run of the house when your home until they are between 4-6 months old and are reliably trained. Your pup should be in a crate or a confined area when you can't watch him. Using a crate is the best way to housetrain your pup. Depending on when your pup was born, he may or may not be used to going outside. Winter pups do not go outside before seven weeks old, and have been taught to go on paper in my house. Do not continue to use paper in your home, teach your pup that outside is where to go.

Submissive Urination: This is not to be confused with "accidents" in the house. Some dogs have the strong instinct to show their submission to various people by emmiting a small amount of urine when touched, or is excited. Sometimes dogs will do this to only one household member, or only to men, or only to guests. This behavior should not be punished, as it will only make it worse. The best thing to do is to ignore it. Try to greet the pup on a easy to clean surface, and have a towel handy to throw over the spot so she doesn't step in it.

When you arrive home, or wake up for the day, don't let the pup out immediately. Ignore her, and wait 5 minutes or so before letting her out. Greet her in a low key manner, and take her outside. Submissive urination is not a problem that can be "cured", but rather needs to be outgrown. Management is the best way to make this problem less irritating. Some pups grow out of it right away, others take a few months. Not all of them do it, but it can be a bit of a trial when you have one that does. Be patient, and keep the carpet cleaner handy!

Crate training: Pups sleep 16-17 hours a day. Your pup will learn to sleep in his crate, but he may cry vigorously at first. NEVER take your pup out of the crate while he is screaming. All that will teach him is when I cry I will get out. If you have a persistent pup, and he screams for two hours, and you take him out while he is crying, he will learn to scream for two hours to get out. As soon as your pup stops crying, you can take him out if you want to, but never while he is crying.

Crate your pup for short times during the day to get him used to the crate, don't try and put him in the crate for the first time when you are going to bed, all you'll have is a sleepless night!! Depending on how well you do, and how persistent your pup is, crate training takes 2-3 days to 1 week. Feed your puppy in the crate to help him to feel comfortable.

Use easy to wash bedding in your dogs crate for the first few months. If your pup pottys in the crate, clean it thoroughly to remove any scent. The location of the crate is really a personal issue. Some people want the crate located where the dog can easily reach it when he comes in dirty and wet. Some people will want the crate in their room. This is fine, just put it where it is convenient to you.

Kelby pups should train relatively easily as they are raised in a clean environment. Persistence and careful watching for the first few months is the key. You can teach your pup to sit to be let out of his crate. This will eliminate the pup becoming over excited as you approach his crate.

First teach your pup to be happy in his crate, then teach him the sit. Once he has learned both, but them together to teach him to sit quietly to come out. Approach the crate and put your hand on the latch, say sit, ONLY ONCE. Puppy will squirm and circle, maybe cry out. You wait quietly for him to sit. He will eventually sit and look at you to see what he need to do to get you to open the door. As soon as he does, open the door and praise. Do this each time you let him out, and he'll learn to sit for the door.

Containment Systems: Underground fences are becoming more popular. They are very good for some situations, and I recommend the Innotec brand. I have never used them myself, but I hear they are very good. They can be used to outline a perimeter for your dog, or to protect landscaping. Remember they will not keep other dogs out, and if something comes along that is tempting enough for your dog to run through the line, your dog will not be able to get back in the yard.

Use baby gates to keep your puppy confined to an area if needed, but you must still keep an eye on pup, or he may chew your cabinets!! Leave plenty of toys for your pup to play with to prevent this. Teach your growing pup to respect the gate, and you will be able to use it even when the pup is full grown and able to jump the gate.

I like kennels for dogs to have time outside when they cannot be attended. Be sure to put it in a shady area, or put a shade cover over it. Use pea gravel, or cement as a flooring to keep mud down on rainy days. I never recommend tying your dog up outside. It builds frustration in your dog and will make him a barker. Dogs that are perfectly comfortable in a kennel, will resent the pull of a chain or rope around its neck.

Chewing And Mouthing: Pups naturally play with their littermates with their teeth. When you bring your pup home, you become its littermate. Puppy will bite your ankles, pants, and hands. This is a pups invitation to play. Replace the desired body part with a appropriate toy, and say ouch! to show your disapproval of having your hand mouthed.

If you jerk your leg quickly away from the pup and he comes back at you more aggressively than before, it is because the jerking motion has put the pup in "Prey drive". You have actually invited the pup to play with you. By quickly snapping anything away from a pup, or dog, you are bringing out it's instinct to catch it. If all your gentle methods have not worked to teach the pup to stop biting your leg and you have to get rougher, make sure it really hurts the dogs feelings, and not encourages him to come back for more.

I don't recommend putting your thumb in your dogs mouth and pressing down on his tongue to stop him from biting. All this teaches the dog is to be mouth shy because you are going to hurt him. Remember this stage will quickly pass, and be patient. With children that are too young to guide the pups play, be sure to not leave the pup and child alone until the pup learns not to mouth. They will grow out of this stage, and the above tactics will help the pup to learn.

Children should not be allowed to run away from the pup squealing. This only encourages the pup to chase them and bite them. On the subject of children and pups, teach children how to pick up the pup so that they are comfortable. If a child is too young to learn this, watch them closely so they dont hurt the pup. One really negative experience can cause a pup to develop a lifelong fear of children.

Jumping Up: Pups and dogs jump up because they know that people respond to them from their upper bodies, and they want to get close to you. We need to teach our pups that the way to get attention is to sit in front of us. When puppy jumps on you, turn away so his feet hit the ground again, and instantly praise the pup for having four on the floor. Tell him to sit, or just pet him and say good puppy in a calm voice.

You can attach a cord, or a leash on the pup to drag and step on it when he tries to jump up and again, immediately praise the pup while his feet are on the ground. Be sure the cord isnt too long that it gets tangled on the furniture. The key is praise while he is not jumping, and not rewarding for the jumping behavior. Some people will tell you to knee the pup in the chest or step on his back feet. Dont use this as a first tool of training. Teach before you correct!!

If you have a especially persistent jumper, you can take a hold of his front paws and hold them firmly, and stretch them upward just a bit so that they are barely touching the ground with their hind paws. Pup will get uncomfortable and want down, hold a few more seconds, then release, praise as soon as his feet touch the ground. Again, this is a second step only if the first one has failed.

When guests come over, put your pup away after the initial greeting unless you want your pup to be the center of attention. Ignoring your free pup while visitors are over will only cause the pup to learn bad habits while your are distracted. If you put your pup away before he gets a chance to greet your company, he will never learn to be social with people who pull come over. So let him say "HI", then put him away if you can't watch him. If you have come to my kennel to visit, you may have been jumped on by one of my dogs. I happen to be one that loves to hug and love on my dogs while they are up on me. I just put them away if I don't want them to jump on my guests. That doesn't mean that you can't teach your dog not to jump on people, but you have to teach him not to jump on you first, and be sure that he understands your meaning. Then you can have a friend help you teach him not to jump on company by setting up a training situation. Remember he isn't being bad, it's just another example of how we have to teach our dogs to live in our human world!

My dogs are for my pleasure, just as yours are, you decide what is acceptable and what is not, and find a way to communicate this to your dog. Teaching your pup not to jump up is a process that should be started right away, while the pup is small and easy to control. You shouldn't let your 15 pound pup jump on you if you don't plan on letting him jump on you when he weighs 100 pounds.

Training And Treats: Anyone who tells you not to train your puppy with treats doesn't know what they are talking about, period. Pups are driven by food or play. They must be taught in their drives to learn. A dog is a opportunist, and will do what is best for itself. If eating is what it wants, then the dog will perform the exercise to receive the reward. That doesn't mean that a dog CAN'T be taught without treats, and only with a chain collar. To get into this in depth here would take many more pages, but I felt it important to mention.

Be sure to take your pup to new places at least once per week. Parks, schools, pet stores, ect. This will insure that your pup stays properly socialized. Pups need to learn to obey commands in places other than their home. Carry treats and toys with you. Engage your pup in play in new places, and when strangers approach, give them a treat to offer your pup so that he learns people are wonderful. Don't expect the same level of perfromance from your dog away from home until you have trained for it. A dog that will sit, stay, and heel at home, will not do so at the park unless you train there, and back up to baby steps in the new environment. Use different treats and toys away from home as the ones you use at home will not hold the same value to your pup in a new enviornment. You must increase your worth over that of what is distracting him to get him to focus on you instead. That is really the main difference between food training and yank and yerk training. Food training takes patience in the new enivornment, while you just increase your "correction" with the chain collar at that time. Rather than punish my pup into listening to me, I prefer to let him check out his new surroundings, then ask for his attention. His attention span will grow as he does. More on this at another time.

Always keep your pup on a leash of some sort when he is in a place that is not secure. Use long lines, (20-30 foot leashes the pup can drag), or a flexi leash to allow your pup to be able to go in front of you. By having control of your pup at all times, your pup will learn to always come when called because he has never been able to go away from you.

NEVER chase your dog. If you find yourself suddenly out of control of your pup, and you need him to come, run the other way and call your pup to you in a happy voice, making yourself more exciting than the object he is sniffing. If you chase your pup, he will run the other way, and learn to play keep away. They learn this very fast. Essentially, you teach your pup that you are the giver of food, happiness, and comfort and he never wants to be away from you.

Eating Foreign Objects: Pups will pick up anything, and chew it up and eat it. You must watch your pup to teach him not to do these things. He will grow out of this phase but until he's past it, watch out!!

The most common complaint is eating rocks. Pups like the salty taste of rocks. Don't let him eat them, as they can cause impaction resulting in death. If your pup is obsessively eating rocks and dirt, he may need more Kelp in his diet. Revival Animal Health sells this product and you can feed it at the rate of 1 tablet per 10 pounds. Put it right in with the kibble and the dog will eat it.

The other is stool eating. Pups learn this behavior from mom, as she eats the stool to keep the den clean. Usually a pup can be deterred from doing this by a quick "No, Yuck!" and distract the pup from the stool. Some pups, despite your best efforts will keep doing this. Feed your pup thin cut green beans in his food, juice and all, at a rate of about a ¼ can per feeding. In about a week the vegetable protein will come through in the stool and for some reason, they find it distasteful!! You must continue with behavior training while treating the physical aspect.

Neutering And Spaying: Here is a can of worms!! There are so many opinions of what is the right thing to do. I will only tell you my point of view and you do what is right for you. Neuter the dog that will not be used for breeding at the age of 12-24 months. If you neuter before this, your dog will not get the mature stallion like appearance, or fully develop his guard dog instincts. This does not mean he will not be beautiful and protective if you neuter him at six months, just not to his full genetic potential.

This being said, your male may be less of a handful if you neuter sooner, but training will accomplish this as well. Pups with retained testicle must be neutered. Leaving the testicle in the stomach where it doesnt belong can cause irritation or pain. This surgery should only cost about an additional $50 for the time it takes the vet to look for the testicle. If you are told differently, go somewhere else.

A friend with a Doberman with retained double testicles was quoted $300 for the surgery, another vet did it for $90. You can still wait till at least 12 months old to neuter the dog with a retained testicle. Females and spaying. Again, another controversial issue. It is believed that females spayed before their first heat can become incontinent as they age. I don't know if this is true or not, but I wouldn't take a chance on it. I'd wait if she was my girl. I wouldn't get upset with a client that told me the spayed her right away, but since I have this information I felt I should let you know! Afterall, how can one prove the link between incontince and spaying, when there are so many reasons for it. One being just simply, old age.

Behavioral Problems: Most behavioral problems stem from a puppy being bored. A tired pup is a happy pup. Dealing with behavioral problems is to involved for this handout. PLEASE contact me or a trainer with issues that come up before they become out of hand. A dog learns things by 30 repetitions. It takes 150 or more repetitions to break a habit.

Heartworm, Flea and Tick Products: Dogs must be protected against heartworm. Your vet will guide you on how to do this. It is my opinion that pups born during the winter do not need preventative until the spring. If you think you will forget to bring your dog back in the spring, then get it right away. I don't keep my dogs on preventative year around.

I recommend the once a month heart guard chewable. I only use flea and tick products if I have a problem with fleas. Some people need to use it because they have a problem with ticks. In this case, use it. If fleas are your only concern, dont begin applying the product until you see fleas, or no sooner than July. Frontline is a wonderful product.

Diarrhea in Puppies: There are several reasons for puppies to develop diarrhea. Because worms are easy to treat before symptoms appear, your pups stool sample will likely be negative for these parasites. Two other common causes of diarrhea are coccidia and giardia. Coccidia is treated with Albon, and Giardia is treated with Metronidazole. If your pup has tested positive for either of these, you were sent home with meds, and a sheet explaining what it is.

A pup can have a normal stool, and still be infected. Coccidia and Giardia have an outbreak under stress, such as leaving the litter and going home. Diarrhea with some form, like pancake batter needs to be watched closely. Water diarrhea, or diarrhea with blood needs immediate attention by your vet. Chances are your pup has one of the above issues. Your can administer Imodium for children, or a similar product, to your pup. Start with the lowest recommended dose. I prefer the liquid over tabs, but it doesn't matter.

Be sure your pup continues to drink, even if he doesn't eat. You can use Pedialite for children, found at any Wal-Mart, and add it to his water. Use the non-flavored kind for the best chances of the pup drinking it. One of the reasons for having your pup checked by your vet in a three day period is to have a stool sample run since some symptoms don't appear until the pup feels stress from going home. I run one before the pups leave me, but you will have an all around better experience if these matters are attended to immediately. I have heard of some vets telling people that their children can catch certain parasites from their puppy. I don't belive there is much risk in this. My three children have been around pups almost every day of their lives, and they have never caught ANYTHING, ever, from any pup or dog.

Taking Home Puppy Essentials: For the ride home, I recommend you bring a towel, and some paper towels for the trip. You may bring a small crate to transport your pup in if you wish, but it isn't absolutely necessary. Inquire about how your pup handled the ride to the vet for its health check to know if your pup will be car sick or not. Most of my pups don't have this problem, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Pups that will be flying to their destination may have a long day, so be prepared to clean up the pup, and change the towel in its crate for the ride home. The pups actually spend more time traveling to and from the airport than actually being on the plane. Have a medium size, adjustable, plastic buckle collar to put on your puppy. Plastic buckles are best for pups as they will break if the pup gets stuck on something.

A medium size collar will fit you pup for its first few months. Adult male dogs should wear a metal buckle collar rather than plastic, as the plastic will break under stress. Some stronger females should have this type as well. Never leave a choke collar on your dog while unattended, as they can choke themselves to death if they get stuck on something.

Another problem with these collars is if two or more dogs are playing together, one can get its mouth stuck on the metal and break its jaw or worse. As a rule, my dogs do not wear collars except when we are leaving the property, and those that do have well fitting collars so another dog can't get its mouth through it. I recommend stainless bowls for feeding at home. These bowls are easy to wash, and are very sanitary.

Plastic bowls will cause the pigment on your dogs nose to rub off over time from rubbing on the plastic. I like the non-skid stainless bowls as the dogs can't tip them over. Put easy to wash bedding in your dogs crate during potty training. There is a very good chance your dog will mess his crate a few times during training, and this will make clean up easier. Do not use blankets that are stuffed, as the pups will chew a hole in them and pull out the stuffing. It could make your dog sick, or worse if they eat the fill.

Most crates these days come with a divider partition in them to make the crate smaller for easier house training. If you don't have one like this, it's ok, just be more patient as your dog may go to the back of the crate to eliminate if you don't heed his signals that he has to go. This is all you need to get started, along with the food, and toys outlined in this letter. Good luck!!!

Leashes And Collars: There are so many leashes and collars out there to choose from. You can get as fancy and as plain as you want. Ill describe a few of them, and what they are used for here. Puppies should wear a medium size nylon, plastic buckle collar. These collars adjust as the puppy grows, and come in a variety of colors and patterns. Puppies should never wear any other type of collar the first few months. These are safest, and there is no need for a choke, or any chain collar on a pup.

A few people like to use harnesses on pups rather than collars. I only use a harness on pups that I want to TEACH to pull for the conformation ring. A pup learns to not pull by hitting the end of the leash with a collar on, and choking himself, then having relief from the uncomfortable feeling and being praised for turning back to you. If the pup hits the end of the leash, and continues to pull, and drags you over to the desired object (child,toy, other dog), he has been rewarded for pulling, and hence taught to pull! An adult dogs daily wear collar should be well fitted, not too loose. A loose collar will get hung up on objects or on another dogs mouth. You should be able to fit two fingers easily through the dogs collar for a good fit. They can be nylon, or leather, and have any type of buckle.

If your dog must wear tags, this is the collar he should wear them on. Some people have a need for a little more leverage on a adult dog, and this is were choke, or pinch collars come in. Choke collars, or training collars come in many sizes. The thinnest are the most severe as they cut more than a larger link collar. Use only good steel ones, as the cheaper versions will break. Don't put tags on this collar, or leave your dog alone unattended with these on. IF you have your dog microchipped, and he looses his collar or tags, shelters will be able to contact you by scanning the dog for a chip, and contacting the database kept by the company who made the chip. Microchipping is available at Kelby for a fee. Let me know if you'd like to have your puppy microchipped before going home. I'll discuss with you how it works.

Learn how to properly put the collar on as there is a right way or a wrong way to do it. Leave about two inches of slack for corrections, and it should easily fit on and off the dogs head. A collar that is too big is useless, and you may have to buy a few different ones as your dog grows. It does no good to have a dog pulling on the end of a choke collar, learn how to use a pop correction to effectively use the collar.

Fur saver choke collars are very popular amongst the training crowd, but are amazingly hard to find in stores. I dont know why they dont carry them, they are so much better for the dogs coat. Prong, or pinch collars are a great training tool when used properly. They are power steering for dogs. They must be snug fitting, and set high up on the dogs neck to be effective. A loose fitting prong collar is useless, a proper correction can't be delivered. Use a quick release collar for easy on and easy off of these collars as a dog should never wear one for more than a few hours. They are a great tool to have for people with arthritis or shoulder and back problems. Prong collars should never be left on a dog for prolonged periods of time.

Next we have flexi leashes. Flexis are great for walking your dog. You can take your dog or pup out for a stroll and let them out as far as you want, and reel them back in for crossing streets or crowds. They are NOT for obedience training though, only for walking. They are very useful for potty training. Pups should be taught to eliminate on a leash so that when you travel with your dog he is comfortable going.

I have had many dogs come to board that dont know how to potty on a leash and they spend an uncomfortable day or so learning that it is OK to do so. Regular leashes come in all types. The only one that is good for nothing is the chain leash. They are tough on your hands, and the dogs can get hurt when they tangle on their legs.

Nylon leashes are OK, but are tough on your hands for training. They are good for casual use though. My favorite are leather leashes. They are handsome, and come in many colors and types. You can get all braided leashes, flat leashes, and rolled leashes. Ive seen them in red, purple, and white, as well as more traditional black, and brown. I like ones that are braided on the handle and clasp end of the leash as they will last a lifetime.

Leashes with stitching break down over time, and aren't as durable. Your leash is only as good as the clasp. Make sure if you have a strapping male dog, he doesn't have a dinky clasp attaching him to the leash, itll surely break. I like six foot lengths for training young dogs, four foot lengths for the more seasoned dog, and have some with one foot lengths for my heeling experts. Leather leashes come in a variety of widths as well. You can match the width to the comfort of your hand, but again be aware that a bigger dog will need a thicker leash.

Another tool which you may find useful is a long line for training. They come in 15, 20, 25, and 30 foot lengths. They are great for teaching the pup to come to you at a distance. Happy shopping!

I hope you have found these instructions helpful. These questions are asked of me by nearly every client, and having this sheet to refer to in the coming weeks can be helpful. I am striving to make the best GSD possible, and to match just the right pups with the right families. Know that I am here to answer your questions, and wish the best for you and your pup. If at any time in your pups life, you have a question or concern feel free to call me or email me. Email kelbygsd@verizon.net , cell phone 262-903-1661, home 262-275-0093. If I happen to move during your pups life, just search for my website, and you will be able to find me. I intend to breed and show GSDs for many, many years to come.